Reviewed crop guides
Planting timing depends on the crop
Some crops work backward from frost, some wait for warm soil, and cool-season crops may use different spring and fall anchors. Choose the guide that matches the decision.
8–9 weeks indoors
Peppers
Count backward from planting day, then wait for warm nights
Open guide →Wait for 70°F soil
Cucumbers
Check the last frost before planting seeds outdoors
Open guide →Separate spring and fall dates
Lettuce
Calculate from a spring transplant or the first fall frost
Open guide →Last frost plus 40°F soil
Carrots
Check both the calendar and measured soil temperature
Open guide →Thawed, workable soil
Peas
Check the garden instead of waiting for a fixed national date
Open guide →Warm soil plus repeat sowings
Beans
Build bush bean plantings two weeks apart
Open guide →Check roots after 3-5 weeks
Radishes
Estimate an inspection window for quick garden radishes
Open guide →Plan spring and fall separately
Spinach
Build repeat spring sowings or count back from fall frost
Open guide →Start transplants 10-12 weeks early
Onions
Count backward and confirm the correct day-length type
Open guide →Match the packet soil threshold
Sweet corn
Check soil temperature and pollination layout before sowing
Open guide →Start about 8 weeks early
Eggplant
Count backward, then wait for nights above 50°F
Open guide →Plan spring transplants 5 weeks early
Broccoli
Allow four weeks indoors and about one week to harden
Open guide →Start spring transplants 4-6 weeks early
Cabbage
Keep the fall direct-sowing plan separate
Open guide →Start transplants about 5 weeks early
Cauliflower
Plan for cool head-forming weather and variety needs
Open guide →Why the calculators differ
One frost-date rule cannot fit every crop. Each guide shows the date or temperature it uses, where that guidance comes from and what the result cannot know.
What every result still needs
Historical climate dates are planning estimates. Check the current forecast, seed packet, soil and conditions in your own garden before planting.